Day hiking The Enchantments Trail … Wow! Where do we begin? Well, the 18.6-mile thru hike from Stuart/Colchuck Lake Trailhead to Snow Lakes Trailhead is amazing, challenging, rewarding and exhausting in equal parts. It’s probably the hardest day hike we’ve done, but it’s also one of the most memorable.
In this guide we walk you step by step through the incredible Enchantments day hike near Leavenworth in Washington, based on our experiences.
Our Experience
We spent 6 months living near Seattle and hiking non-stop in the summer of 2021. The Enchantments was near the top of our bucket list, but we wanted to wait for the golden larches in September. We finally made it up to Leavenworth in fall, drove to Snow Lakes trailhead in the dark and excitedly hopped on a shuttle bus we’d pre-booked to Stuart/Colchuck Lake trailhead.
The hike was truly immense, easily one of the most demanding but unforgettable trails we’ve ever done. Climbing over Aagard Pass was tough but it was the long, slow and brutal descent that hurt the most. By the end our bodies were in pieces, our feet were shredded and we were running on fumes. Never again, we said at the time. Now? We’d love to do it again! Read more about us.
What You Need To Know
Okay, let’s dive right in. Here are the most important things you need to know about day hiking The Enchantments Trail (from Stuart/Colchuck Lake Trailhead to Snow Lakes Trailhead):
- It’s a very hard 18.6-mile trail that should only be attempted by strong hikers.
- You’ll climb 4,551 ft before dropping down 6,690 ft in elevation.
- It can be hiked the opposite way but it’s much harder.
- You need to figure out transport for both trailheads.
- It’s important to start early in the morning so you have enough daylight hours.
- You’ll need headlamps for the beginning and/or end.
- You should carry a means of water filtration or purification.
- Do not try to go up the east side of Aasgard Pass.
- Upper, Middle and Lower make up the Core Enchantments.
- Wearing the right gear and packing well is key (covered later in the guide).
- Bring a swimsuit for the lakes if it’s warm enough.
- The hike is open, exposed and long so you need to be prepared.
- Do not mess with protective mountain goat mothers.
- Encourage and motivate others, this is not an easy hike.
- It’s as much a mental battle as it is a physical challenge.
- Remember, you’re hiking one of the most amazing trails in the US!
Trail Statistics
We recorded our Enchantments hike using our Gaia GPS Premium app. For us, it’s best hiking app on the market for tracking statistics and our live location using offline maps. (Here’s our 10% discount for Gaia if you’re interested.)
There are no distance markers or anything that gives you an indication of how far you’ve hiked on the Enchantments Trail. So following our progress on the offline map helped to keep us sane, especially towards the end.
Here are the statistics from our hike:
- Distance: 18.61 miles
- Ascent: 4,551 ft
- Descent: 6,690 ft
- Average Speed: 1.4 mph
- Moving Speed: 1.6 mph
- Max Speed: 3.9 mph
- Moving Time: 11h 15m
- Stopped Time: 1h 41m
- Total Time: 12h 56m
It’s hard to put an exact number on how long The Enchantments is going to take you to hike. Trail runners might do it in 6 or 7 hours, whereas slower hikers might take 15 or 16 hours to finish. We’re pretty strong hikers with lots of experience and our moving time was 11 hours 15 minutes. But we had plenty of stops for food, photos and to take it all in, so our total time was 12 hours 56 minutes.
You might be thinking our moving speed of 1.6mph isn’t very fast? You’ll understand why when you get on the trail! It isn’t just the long distance that makes this a hard hike, it’s the nature of the steep elevation gains and losses throughout. There are surprisingly few periods in which you’re walking on flat and level ground, so it’s hard to get up any real speed.
The Enchantments Trailhead
There are two trailheads you’ll use to thru hike The Enchantments:
We hiked the trail on a busy day in September during peak golden larches season and we’d say around 95% of people began at Stuart/Colchuck Lake Trailhead and ended at Snow Lakes Trailhead. It’s the way we did it and the way we recommend you do it too.
Snow Lakes Trailhead is 5 miles from Leavenworth and Stuart/Colchuck Lakes Trailhead is a further 8 miles away on slow gravel roads. You need to get to Stuart/Colchuck Lake as early as possible in the morning, so it’s important to organize your transport in advance before you arrive into Leavenworth.
Here are three ways you can deal with the logistics:
- Have a family member or friend drop you off at Stuart/Colchuck Lake Trailhead and pick you up from Snow Lakes Trailhead.
- Take two cars, leave one at Snow Lakes Trailhead on the way through and drive the other car to Stuart/Colchuck Lake Trailhead. But at the end of the hike you’ll need to pick up your second car, so it’s not very convenient.
- Book (in advance!) a shuttle bus service so you can park one car at Snow Lakes Trailhead, have the shuttle drive you to Stuart/Colchuck Lake Trailhead and pick your car up at the end just 5 miles from Leavenworth.
Option 3 is clearly the best and most convenient option, right?! We pre-booked our shuttle online with loop connector shuttle. It was very easy to book and we received an email with a precise meeting location and time. Spaces are limited to 12 hikers on each of the 3 runs the shuttle bus makes each morning at 5:00am, 6:00am and 7:00am. We booked ours a month or so in advance and it cost us $24 per person.
There’s a small parking area along Icicle Creek Road at Snow Lakes Trailhead. Once the lot is full, cars begin to line both sides of the main road. We arrived at 4:45am and got a parking spot on the roadside around 100 ft from the parking lot, which also served as the meeting point for our 5:00am shuttle.
Important: Passes must be displayed if you park at either trailhead. You can use a Northwest Forest Pass, America the Beautiful Pass or a $5 day pass that you can buy at both trailheads.
Trail Map
Beginning at Stuart/Colchuck Lake Trailhead, it’s 4 miles uphill to Colchuck Lake, followed by another 1.5 miles to the summit of Aasgard Pass (which includes a very steep climb). As a reward, you get to enjoy 3 miles of easy walking through the stunning Core Enchantments. But don’t get too comfortable, you’ve then got 10 miles of grueling descent back to Snow Lakes Trailhead.
The constant pounding on jagged, steep, angled and uneven terrain for hours and hours took its toll on our joints, bones and muscles. In truth, we wouldn’t have been disappointed if the hike finished after we’d gotten through the Core Enchantments. The 10 miles from that point until the end dropped down 6,690 ft (that’s 1.26 miles vertical elevation loss) and the last 5 miles were hellish.
Trail Walkthrough
Next, let’s walk through the trail exactly as we hiked it so you know what to expect.
1. Stuart/Colchuck Lake Trailhead
When our alarm went off at 3:45am we slipped into our hiking gear, stuffed ourselves full of breakfast food for energy and sipped on very large cups of B&B coffee to-go. It only took 10 minutes to drive to Snow Lakes Trailhead, so we arrived by 4:45am, found a parking spot, met the shuttle driver and settled in for a 30 minute drive to Stuart/Colchuck Lake Trailhead.
Before hitting the trail we had to sign a register. So we filled in a form, ripped off the bottom, posted it in the box and tied the tag to our backpack. Finally, we were ready to hike The Enchantments. So we strapped on our headlamps in the total darkness and set off at 5:30am.
2. Begin Hiking To Colchuck Lake
All that stood between us and Colchuck Lake was 4 miles and 2,300 ft elevation gain in the dark. We’d been mentally preparing ourselves to climb Aasgard Pass, but we didn’t give much thought to what came before. Well, the first mile and a half began softly with a bouncy and gradual dirt packed forest path but it soon turned into a long and consistent climb after we’d crossed a wooden bridge.
It was a busy weekend morning in golden larch season, so there were a lot of hikers all climbing at a fast pace in a hurry to reach Colchuck Lake. From above all you’d see is a long trail of headlamps scurrying up a mountainside.
3. Left At The Intersection
After some pretty steep trail sections (be ready for them!) over the next three quarters of a mile, we eventually reached a flatter area with a four way X-junction. To the right was a vault toilet, straight ahead was the path to Stuart Lake and to the left was the route we followed aiming for Colchuck Lake, which opened in to an enormous boulder field.
The morning was beginning to light up so we were able to turn our headlamps off here. We crossed a wooden bridge and began navigating through the boulder field, before getting back on forest trails with switchbacks for the last mile. Views of rugged mountaintops glowing at sunrise began to open up and the morning’s hard work already felt worth it.
4. Colchuck Lake
We knew when the first major climb was over because the trail flattened, turned slightly to the right and we could see water through trees. So we followed a maze of dirt trails until spotting a spur leading down steeply to huge smooth boulders and rocks on the edge of Colchuck Lake. And wow! The scene ahead was spectacular.
We stopped here for around 10-15 minutes, grabbed some photos (we got our camera out for the only time other than the Core Enchantments), ate some snacks and took a breather. The whole area was still in shadow so we got a bit chilly, but looking beyond the lake at Aasgard Pass filled us with adrenaline and warmed us right back up!
5. Bottom Of Aasgard Pass
We’d already climbed 2,300 ft and hiked around 4 miles. Next, we had to gain 2,000 ft in just three quarters of a mile climbing the mighty Aasgard Pass. But first we had to circle around Colchuck Lake to reach the bottom of the climb. On the far side, we navigated more boulders and large stones, following cairns and passing by a small beach.
We used this flat and easy section to mentally prepare for the climb, knowing it was going to be rough but feeling strangely excited at the same time. Using a very obvious grove of larch trees around half way up the pass to the left of center as a landmark, our goal was to climb to the left side of the grove. One of us made a nervous joke and it was the last time either of us smiled for over and hour!
6. Climb The Brutal Aasgard Pass
There was no clear and obvious path up Aasgard Pass. It was more like a series of very steep gravel trails covered by thousands of loose rocks. The going was slow, hard and slippery underfoot. We took our time, carefully considered foot placements and took a lot of short breaks to recover. The intense incline was a monster, everything was burning: calves, hamstrings, quads, glutes, lower back, you name it.
Colchuck Lake was quickly getting smaller below us and the view behind it was getting more expansive by the minute. We passed the larch grove on its left side, kept mentally focussed and helped support other hikers on the climb. Next, we crossed a creek of rushing water. Then we had to use our hands through a rocky section. Finally, we navigated more enormous boulders and pushed hard for the top.
7. Summit Aasgard Pass
Summiting Aasgard Pass at 7,800 ft elevation was a wonderful feeling, bordering on emotional. We’d conquered a ridiculously steep climb, the sun was finally shining on our faces, the views were immense and we knew that was all the elevation gain over for The Enchantments. But our bubble burst very quickly once we realized we’d only done 5 of 18.6 miles on the hike, and we were already wrecked!
We were sure the next few hours hiking through the Core Enchantments would be amazing, but we were acutely aware of things like food, water, energy, time and daylight hours. But this is what we were here for, so we got stuck straight into the Core.
8. Upper Enchantments
Immediately after summiting Aasgard Pass, we had a little more gradual climbing to do but it was only a few minutes. Our first views over the Core Enchantments were of Tranquil Lake and Isolation Lake. We stopped at the viewpoint for a food break and enjoyed the scene of a deep blue sky above a sun-beaten rocky landscape dotted with blue lakes and golden larches.
We ate, applied a ton of sunscreen, and put on hats and sunglasses for protection against the sun. The trail through Upper Enchantments wasn’t a set path. We walked freely over grey rocks in the same general direction as other hikers, but there were cairns and large poles to follow if we needed help. The Upper Enchantments turned out to be the least attractive of the Core area, but it was still stunning.
9. Middle Enchantments
The Middle Enchantments area was our favorite part of the whole hike. After reaching a plateau-like shelf, we dropped into an encampment and on the other side a beautiful view of Crystal Lake and Ingalls Creek Valley blew us away. All of a sudden, the scenery transformed from amazing to truly staggering, so we took a moment to snap some photos before swiftly moving on.
Picturesque lakes came thick and fast now. Next, we arrived high above the glass-like Inspiration Lake, surrounded 270-degrees by tall granite cliffs and a patch of larch trees hugging its right flank. We dropped down a steep boulder path and walked along the lakeshore, refilled our water bottles (using a LifeStraw) and took a 5 minute snack break.
A few minutes later we began a gradual descent down to Perfection Lake. This is where we saw the highest concentration of golden larches in the fall, surrounding the lake and flat grassy meadows. We walked to the northern tip, following the lakeside trail as it twisted through serene forest and larch groves. Eventually, we reached Sprite Lake and stopped for there lunch with awesome views looking back.
10. Lower Enchantments
A longer and more open descent dropped down into the Lower Enchantments. This was the first time we really had a chance to open up a good pace within the Core Enchantments. But not long after we reached the oddly shaped Leprechaun Lake nestles at the base of McClellan Peak. To pass around, we had to traverse narrow ledges and large boulders with steep drops into the lake.
After scrambling, we climbed a steep rocky patch in an open landscape, keeping Lake Viviane to our left. We thought Lake Viviane was the most idyllic lake we’d seen since leaving Colchuck Lake a few hours ago. But there were sketchy trail sections with anxious hikers bottlenecking in both directions as part of the path required a sequence of footwork and hand placements to continue.
11. Steep Descent To Snow Lakes
And that was it. Core Enchantments over, just 3 miles after summiting Aasgard Pass. After Lake Viviane we reached a ledge with far reaching views stretching for miles into a valley below with two bodies of water, Snow Lakes. This was where the real mental and physical challenge began. We’d covered 8.5 miles so we had 10 to go, and the best part was over.
We had no idea what the descent would be like, but it turned out to be so much harder than we could have expected. And it began immediately. It was steep with open rock faces, no clear path or foot placements, scrambling sections and shuffle-down-on-your-butt sections. Our ankles, knees and hips started to groan, our muscles burned and our joints started to ache.
It was 3 miles and 1,400 ft of steep elevation loss to reach Lower and Upper Snow Lake from Viviane Lake. And the problem was never being able get any speed up because it was too steep and uneven. That said, the scenery was still beautiful and after the exposed Core Enchantments, we finally had a welcome respite from the sun and elements.
12. Long Grueling Downhill
Reaching Snow Lakes felt like a real milestone. We took a well deserved break, filled up with water and ate a ton of snacks. It can’t be far now we’ve cracked out the worst of the downhill, right? Wrong. It was still 7 miles with more than 4,000 ft elevation loss. Oh, boy!
We hugged the southern edge of the first lake, before following a path northeast to dissect the two lakes. This forest path was a dream come true, soft and bouncy like walking on clouds. Picking up a walking pace had never felt better. After crossing a long and narrow wooden bridge we entered a forest for a short time before it turned to rocks and gravel. And every step began to hurt.
13. End At Snow Lakes Trailhead
Eventually, we reached the left flank of Nada Lake before the trail disappeared into forest. We continued to lose elevation, turn corners, snake through forest and cross creeks for what felt like an eternity. When we look back on our hike, it’s this final 5 or so miles that we struggle to remember and can only piece it together from photos we took.
The penultimate set of switchbacks on a narrow section of trail dropped through dense forest with vegetation bursting out in all directions. Another short set of switchbacks, followed by another. By now we were spent. Other hikers were hobbling, grimacing and running on fumes. A combination of grit, determination, muscle memory and aspirin are all that kept our legs moving. But the final set of switchbacks were a killer.
Sheer delight at being able to see the parking lot helped, but we weren’t far off 13 hours hiking time and the last 20 switchbacks felt like they were never going to end. Finally, we crossed Icicle Creek on a wooden bridge and a short hill brought us into Snow Lakes Trailhead parking lot. Relief, fatigue and a real sense of achievement washed over us in an instant. We’d successfully day hiked The Enchantments.
What To Pack
Packing effectively is one of the most important aspects of day hiking The Enchantments Trail. A lot depends on weather conditions so you’ll have to pack according to Leavenworth’s forecast. We were lucky with beautiful sun and warmth at the end of September, so it made packing easy.
The key is to pack as lightly as possible while making sure you have enough food to sustain you, a water filter and essential safety gear in case of emergency. Every ounce counts on a hike this long and with this much elevation change.
Here’s what we packed:
- Food – Sandwiches, energy/granola bars, trail mix, muffins, fruit gummies, chocolate bars, energy gels.
- Water – 2.5L reservoir for our Osprey Skimmer 28L backpack, additional 1 liter water bottle, plus a LifeStraw to filter water.
- Media – Camera and lens, smartphone.
- First Aid – Full emergency first aid kit with foil blanket, sunscreen, band aids and aspirin.
- Headlamp – We used headlamps for the morning but you might need them in the evening too.
- Clothes – Thin and lightweight fleece layers, gloves, down jackets, spare socks and baseball caps.
Mark started in shorts with a t-shirt, very light pullover and down jacket. The down jacket lasted 2 minutes, and the pullover came off before climbing Aasgard Pass until near the end on the final switchbacks. Kristen started in leggings with a t-shirt, fleece vest and down jacket. Again, the down jacket was packed very quickly and the fleece didn’t last long either.
We considered taking two cameras, two lenses and a gimbal so we could photograph and video the hike. But after careful consideration we decided one camera and one lens was enough weight to carry. And it was the best decision we made. We were tired enough by the end and all that additional weight might have been a real problem.
Footwear
On any old day hike, you can get away with wearing a pair of running shoes and not really giving it much thought. But The Enchantments is not just any old day hike. It’s a punishing 18.6 mile hike with over 4,500 ft elevation gain and over 6,600 ft elevation loss that can take anywhere between 10-15 hours to walk. So what’s the single most important thing to consider? Footwear.
There are very few sections of this hike in which you are walking on flat ground. It’s almost exclusively gaining or losing elevation and constant stepping up or down onto jagged stones. The worst one for us was walking on steeply angled rocks which would twist our ankles. Your feet are the most important thing to consider, and if you get it wrong you’ll be in trouble.
We decided to go with robust footwear that would stand up against the terrain. Kristen wore her Columbia boots and Mark wore Adidas Terrex Free Hikers. It wasn’t a terrible decision by any means, but we both wished we’d worn something a little less bulky. The up and down movements were killing us by the end with such clunky footwear. And we did have blisters.
Looking back, we wished we’d worn our trail runners. Still sturdy and robust, but far more flexible and pliable for those endless stones and steps. The key is to find a perfect socks and shoes combination that you’re happy and experienced with. Whatever works for you normally, play it safe and go with that. Don’t try out a new idea or new pair of untested shoes on this hike.
Best Time To Hike The Enchantments
Day hiking The Enchantments is going to be an amazing experience no matter the time of year you take it on. But we do think we hiked it on the very best weekend of the entire year at the end of September.
Larch trees turned peak golden colors at exactly the right time for us. Fortunately, we picked that weekend and not the one before to book the loop connector and Granite Hills Inn B&B in Leavenworth. The weekend before it never stopped raining.
May and October introduce dangerous elements such as ice and heavy rain. The trail is already challenging enough but once you throw rain and slippery surfaces into the equation, The Enchantments can quickly become treacherous.
June, July and August are the safest bets for giving yourself the best shot at a dry day with the most daylight hours. But they’d be hot and you’d go through more water. Plus, if you want to see those golden larches, you’ll need to wait until the end of September.
Where To Stay In Leavenworth
Leavenworth is a Bavarian themed resort town with a full festival and event calendar. We think it’s one of the best spots for vacations in the US and because it’s a popular year round destination, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to lodging.
We’ve stayed in Leavenworth on two separate occasions and both times we struck lucky with accommodation:
Enzian Inn – The first time we stayed right in town, near the bars so we could stagger home after a few steins and bratwursts. This inn has a swimming pool, basketball court, mini golf course and amazing breakfast spread with a view.
Granite Hills Inn – The second time we were hiking The Enchantments. So instead of staying in town, we wanted a place closer to the trailhead and away from the noise. And this B&B was perfect. It was peaceful, had lovely owners, an exceptional homemade breakfast and jacuzzi bath.
Granite Hills Inn is 2.4 miles from Snow Lakes trailhead. It took us 4 minutes to drive home at the end of the hike. Oh, and Sandy made us some delicious homemade raspberry muffins to take on our hike, which we devoured at Colchuck Lake!
The Morgan Conclusion
What we like: It’s one of the most remarkable and spectacular hikes in Washington and the United States. The Core Enchantments section was truly unique and amazing. And everyone we met on the hike was so friendly, supportive and motivational.
What we don’t like: It was very busy, so it never really had a lost world feel. The parking situation at different trailheads makes life difficult. It’s a very long, slow and grueling day with barely any flat or easy sections of trail. And those steep ascents and descents are awful on joints and muscles.
Is The Enchantments worth it? Yes! The Enchantments is one of the hardest but most rewarding day hikes in the entire US. It will challenge you mentally, physically and emotionally, but the sense of achievement at the end is immense. The elevation change is extreme and it’s a long day, but the outstanding scenery makes it all worth it.
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Want more Washington content? Head to our Washington Travel Guides to explore National Parks, popular day hikes and best things to do around Seattle.
We hope our guide to day hiking The Enchantments helps with planning your visit to Leavenworth, Washington!
Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below.
Happy Travels,
Mark and Kristen
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Mark and Kristen Morgan are travel, hiking and photography experts. Over the last 6 years traveling full time, they have explored more than 40 countries and 30 US states.
Where Are Those Morgans has been featured in USA Today, Gestalten, Get Your Guide, CityPASS and Condé Nast Traveler along with various other publications. Read more about us.
Thank you so much it is a wonderful information to my…..super helpful.
You’re very welcome, Maria – we hope you have a fantastic hike!