Hiking Van Hoevenberg Trail To Mt Marcy Summit In Upstate NY

Mount Marcy is the tallest mountain of the 46 High Peaks in the Adirondacks, and it’s also the highest point in New York State. We hiked the popular Van Hoevenberg trail to summit Mt Marcy back in the fall of 2020, and despite poor weather conditions we felt a real sense of achievement. It’s a long and slow hike, so be prepared for a tough day!

In this guide we explain everything you need to know about hiking Mount Marcy via Van Hoevenberg Trail, based on our own experiences.

Our Experience

We hiked Mt Marcy on October 4th, 2020 during a visit to Lake Placid, which was the first stop on our maiden New England fall road trip. Lake Placid was a place we’d always wanted to visit and hiking up to the tallest point in the state was top of our wishlist. The mountain town turned out to be better than we imagined, and the hike to Mount Marcy turned out to be harder than we expected.

We arrived at Heart Lake before sunrise to guarantee a parking spot because we’d read about how early it filled. The hike itself, well, if we’re being honest it was a bit of a slog. It was a grueling and pretty boring hike until near the end once we came out of the canopy and climbed to the summit. But we stood on the highest point in NY and the views were amazing, so it was definitely worth it.

READ: 50 hikes you can’t miss in the US

Trail Details

• Distance: 14.8 miles roundtrip
• Elevation Gain: 3,166 ft (965m)
• Summit Height: 5,344 ft
• Trail: Van Hoevenberg
• Parking: Adirondack Loj/Heart Lake
• Fee: $18/vehicle
• Pets: Mt Marcy is dog friendly
• Time: 7-11 hours

There are 4 different trails you can take to reach the summit of Mt Marcy. In this guide we only cover the Van Hoevenberg Trail because it’s the most popular route and it’s the trail we took ourselves.

Interesting Fact: Teddy Roosevelt was at the top of Mount Marcy when he had to descend and head for Buffalo NY to be sworn in as president in 1901.

Hike Overview

Let’s be clear, Mount Marcy is a full day hike. You won’t be able to do much else with your day before or after this hike. It took us almost dead-on 9 hours including a 30 minute break for lunch near the summit. We arrived at the Heart Lake parking lot in total darkness because we didn’t want to have to park a mile away at the nearest alternative. After we finished at around 4.00pm, our feet and legs were in bits, and we were more than ready for a beer!

Our Gaia GPS app clocked us in at 14.8 miles roundtrip (Mark’s Garmin smartwatch showed 31,434 steps), most of which followed Phelps Brook and Marcy Brook through dense forest, before eventually opening up above the tree line for a steep climb to Mt Marcy’s cone-shaped summit. The final approach was the only technically challenging part of the hike, but it’s so long and slow going with uneven rocks underfoot that overall it’s a harder hike than it looks.

Interesting Fact: In Mohawk, the mountain is known as “cloud-splitter’ but it was renamed Mount Marcy after a 19th century governor of New York who gave the go ahead to survey the Adirondack region.

Preparing To Hike Mount Marcy

Hiking Mount Marcy is no joke, so it’s important you prepare properly. Here are some things to remember:

• Check a detailed weather report the day before and the day of your hike.
• Be prepared for changeable conditions.
• The summit is extremely exposed and wind gusts can be strong.
• Pack the right gear according to the weather, including layers and safety considerations.
• The hike isn’t technical but it’s long and uncomfortable with uneven rocks underfoot throughout, so you need to wear robust footwear.
• Pack your bag and eat a big meal the night before.
• Eat a good breakfast in the parking lot once you get a space so you have energy.
• Get an early night because you’ll be waking up early and you need to be rested.
• Use a popular hiking app to track your progress.
• You’ll need bug spray if you hike in summer.
• Check recent hiker comments on AllTrails for current conditions.

The Mount Marcy Parking Problem

When researching for our hike, we discovered that parking at Adirondack Loj/Heart Lake for the Van Hoevenberg Trail was going to be a potential issue. We read lots of comments on forums and on the ADK website that parking fills super early because four different trails (one of which is for Mt Marcy summit) begin and end at this one parking area next to Heart Lake. So naturally, there’s a lot of competition for spaces.

We arrived into the Heart Lake parking area at 5:25am on Sunday October 4th, 2020 and the lot was maybe 70% full. By the time we’d paid, grabbed our gear and signed the hiking register by 5:45am, the lot was around 90% full. If we didn’t get a spot here, we’d have had to turn around and drive 1 mile back up Heart Lake Road to park at South Meadow Trailhead. That would have added on 2 extra miles to the 14.8-miles of hiking we clocked in, which would not have been fun.

Now, it’s important to remember that we hiked Mt Marcy on a weekend when the fall colors were peaking. We knew it was going to be especially busy so we made sure to arrive even earlier. You won’t have to be this early if you hike in spring, fall (outside of peak foliage), or weekdays in summer.

To reach Heart Lake parking lot you need to take Adirondack Loj Road off NY-73 (Cascade Road). If you’re staying in Lake Placid like we did, head south, take a right onto Sentinel Road and follow it until you turn onto Adirondack Loj Road. It was an 8-mile drive that took us around 18 minutes.

Fees: You must pay $18/vehicle to park at Heart Lake for Van Hoevenberg Trail to Mount Marcy. It was $15 when we hiked it and we paid on site once we arrived, but the price has gone up (like everything else!) since. You can also buy a map on site but the trail is easy to follow so we wouldn’t get one.

Walkthrough: Our Mt Marcy Hike

Okay, let’s move onto the fun part! We’re going to walk you through our hike with photos so you can see exactly what you’re up against:

1. Park Up + Sign In

We arrived early, got a parking space, grabbed our gear, signed the hiking register and used the restrooms. The payment kiosk was unmanned so instead we put our $15 (it’s $18 now) into an envelope with our license plate information and put it through a mail slot at the kiosk. We wouldn’t have gotten any spare change and there were no pens on site. So we were glad to have exact cash and a pen in the car.

2. Forest Trail In Darkness

We started hiking Van Hoevenberg Trail for Mt Marcy at around 5:45 am and we were in complete darkness, so we had headlamps on. If you hike in spring or summer you’ll likely be in daylight by now, but check sunrise times to see if you need to pack headlamps. The first part of the trail through dense forest with wooden bridges and boardwalks was easy, flat and picturesque. It had a serious Narnia vibe.

We could see vibrant pinks, reds, oranges and yellows in the leaves when we lit them up with our headlamp lights. Underfoot the leaves were slippery and exposed tree roots were twisting out of the ground so we had to take extra care in the dark.

3. Mount Marcy Dam

The first real landmark we reached was Marcy Dam at 2.1 miles into the hike. There wasn’t much to see at the dam but at least it was starting to brighten up so we could take off our headlamps.

After crossing a wooden bridge we checked a notice board for closures and warnings. It explained that a bridge was closed ahead and we had to cross the stream instead. So we crossed the stream, settled into a slow and gradual climb on uneven rocks, and found a nice steady cadence.

4. Indian Falls

After what felt like forever of having to watch every foot placement between rocks and small boulders on a gradual incline (imagine putting the treadmill on 3% incline for ages), we finally reached Indian Falls.

It was the perfect place to take our first break and refuel. So we followed the flow of water until it cascaded over smooth rocks and we sat on the edge for a quick snack and drink with great views ahead of us.

5. Fun Rock Climb To The Summit

Not too long after getting back on the trail, we finally emerged out of the tree line and the hike instantly became more exciting. We followed yellow painted markers on large boulders and long wooden boards crossing swampy grassland to stay on trail. It was nice to be back out in the open and exposed to the elements after spending so long in the forest.

We could see the summit from quite a way down, so we knew our target. But to get there we had to climb up a steep rocky section and even in early October certain areas in the shade had thin layers of ice. The wind was picking up and light drizzle was coming at us horizontally. We slowed down, took our time and carefully made our way up to the summit. Despite the weather, this was our favorite part of the hike.

6. Enjoy Spectacular Summit Views

Once we arrived at the summit, we were met by a park ranger who told us to avoid walking on fragile Alpine vegetation for preservation purposes. We walked along the flat summit, found plaques dedicated to the history of Mt Marcy and saw a group of large boulders signifying the official highest point in New York.

On a clear day we would have been able to enjoy 360 degree views into Canada, Vermont’s Green Mountains and the Adirondack High Peaks. Our grey, overcast and hazy day wasn’t the best, but we know it also could have been much worse. It was too windy and cold for us to eat at the summit so we dropped down the steep part and took shelter behind a huge boulder for lunch.

7. Descend The Same Way

From experience, we can say that it’s important to enjoy the summit because now you have to come to terms with the fact you have a 3-4 hour descent to contend with. We have to say the way back down got old very quickly. Once we were back in the trees on the uneven rocky trail it became a real slog and we just wanted to be back at our car.

We had to take care because the rocks were slippery, the leaves were slippery, and going downhill can be tough on the knees and ankles. The worst part was keeping our concentration 8 hours into the hike as we walked the last hour back to the parking lot. It only takes one tired misplaced step to have a fall. But, we finally made it and 30 minutes later we were sipping cold beers in Lake Placid!

Best Time To Hike Mount Marcy

The colors were lovely when we hiked Mt Marcy in early October. We’re glad we did it during peak foliage, but it was busy and the weather wasn’t great so we wouldn’t do it at this time of year again. If we were to hike it for a second time, we’d probably choose June or September for a better chance of clearer and warmer weather without it being too busy like it would be in July or August.

Here are some pros and cons to keep in mind about each season:

Spring

• Pros: Few hikers on trail, no parking issues, better value at nearby hotels, flowers in bloom.
• Cons: Snow lingers late, changeable weather, water levels can be dangerously high.

Summer

• Pros: Warm weather, longer daylight hours, less chance of bad weather at the summit.
• Cons: Busy on the trail, parking can be a problem, the bugs are bad, nearby hotels are expensive.

Fall

• Pros: Stunning fall foliage, lower water levels, fewer hikers on trail, better value at nearby hotels.
• Cons: Changeable weather, fewer daylight hours, busy during peak foliage in early October.

Winter

• Pros: Barely any others on trail, no problems with parking, unique snowy views.
• Cons: Very cold, specialist equipment required, only for experienced winter hikers.

What To Pack

Mt Marcy is a long and arduous hike that takes you high up into the Adirondack Mountains. You can’t just turn up and hike it without giving any thought to packing.

Here’s what you should consider:

Food

Don’t underestimate how much food you’ll need on this hike. Remember, the more energy you expend, the more hungry you’ll become. Nobody wants to run out of food on a hike, but you also don’t want to bring too much because it’s heavy.

For our Mount Marcy hike, we each brought:

• One basic ham and cheese sandwich
• A few energy bars
• Trail mix
• Jerky
• A bag of gummies

We ate our sandwiches just below the summit and snacked at different points throughout the hike. It was only just enough and we were hungry at the end, but we kept our packs light.

Water And Drinks

Proper hydration is just as important as nutrition during your hike. As a general rule of thumb, the average person needs to drink about 2.0L of water per day. But when hiking long trails like Mt Marcy, this number needs to significantly increase. Aim for around 3.5L of fluids between water and electrolyte drinks. But bear in mind you’ll need even more on hotter days in summer.

We each drank around 3.0L between water and Gatorades when we hiked Mt Marcy. Again, it was just about enough and we had to drink quite a lot as soon as we got back to our car. You can top up your water bottle at Indian Falls, but be sure to use a filtering device like a LifeStraw.

Hiking Tip: Hydrate and eat well in the day leading up to your hike to give your body the best possible start.

Footwear And Socks

The hike up Mount Marcy involves many different ground types but much of the trail consists of uneven rocks, so you should wear a sturdy hiking boot or trail running shoe. Kristen hiked in these Columbia Newton Ridge Boots and Mark wore these Adidas Terrex Free Hikers for our Mt Marcy hike.

Note: If you hike in the winter, you’ll need snow shoes or microspikes.

Socks are super important for this hike because it’s so long. The last thing you want is a foot full of blisters half way up. After clocking up hundreds of miles on trails like Rim to River in the Grand Canyon, the Enchantments in Washington and the Tour du Mont Blanc in Europe, there’s only one sock we use for long hikes: Darn Tough. We love them and wouldn’t use any other company. Take a look at them on Amazon, REI or Darn Tough.

Layers

We hiked in October with the following layers:

• One pair of pants or leggings
• Darn Tough socks (plus backup)
• Short sleeved base layer
• Thin long sleeved mid layer
• Thick fleece layer
• Thin waterproof jacket
• Hat + gloves (for the summit)

Depending on the time of year you hike Mount Marcy, you will have to adjust your required layers for the weather. Remember, even in summer months it might be colder than you expect at the top. Pack a few light layers just in case.

Hiking Backpack

Again, because this is such a long hike it’s important to wear a comfortable and breathable day pack. We used our Peak Design Everyday backpacks to protect our camera gear. They’re not exactly designed for hiking but we find them comfortable enough on long hikes and we feel content knowing our cameras are secure.

If we were hiking it without our camera gear, we would have used our Osprey Skarab (men) and Osprey Skimmer (women) instead. We love our Osprey hiking backpacks, so it’s only ever between these two packs for us depending on whether we’re taking our cameras along.

Headlamp

You should pack a headlamp any time of year for any hike just in case something happens and you have to spend an unplanned night on the trails. But you absolutely need a headlamp if you hike Mt Marcy in fall. We always pack our Black Diamond headlamps when we travel anywhere to hike. Check them out at Amazon, REI or Black Diamond.

READ: Gift ideas for avid hikers

Where To Stay Nearby

We think Lake Placid is the easiest and most convenient place to stay for hiking Mt Marcy. We’ve spent 5 nights in Lake Placid and we really like the mountain resort. It’s got great restaurants and breweries, a relaxed vibe and lots of fun things to do on the doorstep.

Here are our top hotel recommendations for Lake Placid:

• Groups – Cobble Mountain Lodge
• Luxury – Golden Arrow
• Apartment – The Haus
• Budget – Town House Lodge

On another trip to the Adirondacks we also stayed at Snow Goose Bed and Breakfast in Keene Valley, which is just 22 miles from Mt Marcy Trailhead. It was a lovely B+B stay and it’s also very close to another popular hike in the area called Indian Head.

Photos From Our Hike

Just to give you a bit more of a visual about the trail, here are a few more photos we took along our hike:

The Morgan Conclusion

What we liked: Mt Marcy was a real challenge and we enjoyed the sense of achievement standing at the highest point in the state. The summit views were great and they’d be amazing with clear weather. Plus, the trail never felt too busy despite the parking lot being full.

What we didn’t like: The parking situation was stressful and we had to arrive ridiculously early to avoid adding on 2 extra miles of hiking. We also think the parking price was a little steeper than it needed to be. The trail was also quite boring for long periods and it required a lot of concentration because of the uneven rocks for much of the hike.

Is Mount Marcy worth it? Yes, we think Mt Marcy is definitely worth doing once. It’s a long and slow hike, but the summit approach is exciting and 360 degree views from the top are awesome. Would we hike it again? Probably not, but we’re glad we did it once to say we stood on the highest point in New York State.

More From Upstate New York

• What you can’t miss in Lake Placid
• Tips for visiting High Falls Gorge near Lake Placid
• How to find the best New York State waterfalls
• Unmissable places to visit in the NY Finger Lakes

Want more New York content? Head over to our New York Travel Guides to explore the Finger Lakes, Adirondacks and the best of NYC.

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We hope our Mount Marcy hiking guide helps with planning your visit to the Adirondack Mountains in New York!

Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below.

Happy Travels,

Mark and Kristen

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