“Well, that was … like nothing I’ve done before” were the first words Mark said to Kristen. We had officially conquered the onsen in Nara, Japan. In other words, we had just bathed butt naked with complete strangers! When originally researching for our first trip to Japan back in 2018, we quickly learned about the onsen craze. We agreed it could be fun and decided to check it out.
Back then we were traveling the world for 18 months on a low-mid range budget, so unfortunately we couldn’t splash out on our very own private Japanese onsen in the countryside overlooking mountains. But the onsen ryokan we stayed at in Nara was a great introduction. Read more about us.
Since then we’ve done a few more onsens in other parts of Japan, but in this guide we’re going to share our experiences from the very first time we entered the natural hot springs at Onyado Nono Nara. It had a perfect blend of luxury and relaxation, and it didn’t break the bank. Okay, let’s begin!
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What Is An Onsen?
An onsen is a traditional Japanese natural hot spring bath, and there are more than 30,000 of these naturally occurring hot springs scattered across the country. They formed due to the high amount of tectonic and volcanic activity in the region, and some of these hot spring areas have been opened up to the public for bathing.
Typically, an onsen will have various shallow pools at different temperatures, some indoors and others outdoors. In Japanese culture, the concentrated amount of minerals and salt in the hot spring water is regarded for its medicinal properties.
The natural hot waters include elements such as sulfur, sodium chloride, hydrogen or iron which can have several health benefits. The main idea is for the hot spring water to have a calming influence on both your mind and body. However, it is advised for people with any health concerns to consult a doctor before using an Onsen.
The onsen has become a popular tourist activity in Japan and we do think it should feature on every visitors to-do list. Why? Because it’s a unique and liberating thing to do, and when are you going to get this chance again?
What Are The Different Types?
Hot spring baths in Japan can be experienced in many different ways. There are gender separated and gender mixed baths, indoor and outdoor baths, and public or private baths. A public bath will typically be split into separate areas for males and females, which is how you will find the onsen in Nara.
Some baths are located in remote parts of the country and others can be found within the major cities. The price you pay can vary significantly depending on location, quality, seclusion and so many more things.
You will find that traditional accommodation, commonly known as ryokans, are popular in hot spring resorts. They feature tatami floors typically made from rice straw and shoji sliding doors made from paper.
To get the most out of your Japanese onsen experience, you should include an overnight stay at a hot spring ryokan. Trust us, you’ll feel utterly relaxed and ready for bed by the end of the day.
Do You Really Have To Be Naked?
If you’re looking into this guide you’ve obviously done some research about onsens. So you know there’s a caveat in some hot spring baths that mean you have to be totally naked with no exceptions, along with everyone else in the baths.
Well, there are some onsens in Japan where nude bathing is banned, like in western style hotels with a rooftop hot spring bath for instance. But the traditional idea is to bathe nude and most places strictly enforce it. Honestly, you just have to let it all out embrace the experience.
It’s interesting because to some people this could be common practice. And it also may not be of any concern to those who aren’t used to it. But there are certainly some who will see that it’s naked only and say nope, no way!
What do you think?
Are There Any Rules?
Yes, there are many rules you must follow at a Japanese onsen, but they aren’t typical rules you would find in a swimming pool, like no diving.
Onsen rules tend to be a little more strict. As we checked into Onyado Nono Nara, we were given an onsen etiquette laminated sheet with rules that had to be followed to the letter.
It can be a bit overwhelming at first, but the rules make perfect sense. It’s all about respecting other cultures, so we highly recommend you read the rules before entering any onsen.
Here were the rules we had to follow:
- You must be completely naked.
- Absolutely no photos. People are naked so you need to respect everyone’s privacy.
- Always wash before entering. There will be showers in or just outside the bathing area. Be careful not to splash water on any bathers near by. Nobody wants to share a bath with you if you’re smelly.
- Never put your head under the water. This is mostly to prevent oils and hair products from contaminating the water.
- Try to keep your tiny towel out of the water. Another measure to keep the water clean. You will usually be given just a small face towel to use in the onsen area.
- Refrain from washing yourself when in the baths. Onsens are meant for relaxation and there is a separate area for bathing.
- Do not talk loudly in the changing or bathing area. It is okay to converse with other bathers but keep hushed conversation.
- No running. This can be very dangerous and may disturb other bathers. Let’s not have an accident.
- If you have long hair, tie it back or use a shower cap. This will prevent hair from going into the onsen. Also ladies, it is best practice to avoid a hot spring during a menstrual period.
I Have A Tatoo, Can I Go To An Onsen?
Then of course, there is the hot topic of tattoos in onsens. Tattoos in Japan have long been associated with organized crime outfit, the Yakuza. However, as tourism in Japan continues to explode, onsens are experiencing higher numbers of foreigners with tattoos wanting to try out the hot springs.
Let’s face it, they’re clearly not members of the Yakuza. And the government is also applying pressure when it comes to tattoos. This is interesting as a profit vs tradition conflict of interest.
So the good news is that many onsens are now much more lenient towards the tattoo rule. If your tattoo is small, you can always cover it up before you enter the onsen with a plaster or bandage. Onyado Nono Nara is not tattoo friendly, but Kristen covered up her small tattoo with a plastic bandage.
Mark’s Onsen Experience
In truth, at first I was thinking “why on earth would I want to take my clothes off and bathe in a room full of naked men?”
But after reading about the history of the Japanese onsen, I realized it actually isn’t something to be shy about. It’s common practice in Japan, and it’s meant to be a relaxing experience.
Kristen convinced me it would be a good cultural experience. I guess it’s not every day you get to go to Japan. Okay, I’m on balls. I mean on board.
The changing rooms are separated leading into each respective onsen and I just parted ways with Kristen. I’m not entirely thrilled about the idea of bathing stark bollock naked with a load of other blokes right now. But I’ve committed, I can’t back out.
On the plus side, this Onsen in Nara is very clean. The luxurious atmosphere of the changing rooms help me to feel that this is as good an establishment as any to go testicle tapping.
A few seconds later I’m in the changing room. Already there are a few local guys letting it all hang out and having a chin wag. I mean it’s cool, it’s not like I’ve never seen a penis before.
Taking The Plunge
I place my clothes in the locker, then I open the door and walk into the onsen. At Onyado Nono Nara, towels remain in the locker room so it’s just me in all my glory.
Upon entering the room, I can’t help but have a strange feeling of liberation and freedom. At the same time, I am awkwardly conscious that my tallywacker is on display.
Maybe this is just a by-product of the fact it’s not what I’m familiar with? Imagine turning up at your local pool with nothing but goggles on.
One of the things I remember the most is the difference in reaction of everyone when I entered. There were about 5 or 6 local chaps looking so chilled. Their arms spread out on the stone backing with legs akimbo, you know, like they’ve done it a hundred times before. Not one of them even flinched.
Then there’s the other westerners already in the onsen. These fellas have certainly not done it a hundred times before. The 4 western guys are by themselves because Onyado Nono is like a couples retreat. I know they feel just as awkward as I do and there were obvious sudden head movements away from me.
All eyes go straight to the ceiling. Then all the eyes dart to the blank wall to the side. Anywhere but to me.
But, that’s as bad as it gets! After I shower thoroughly, as per the etiquette, I slide into the main hot bath. Perhaps too quickly. Am I just trying to get it over and done with? I have my first bit of privacy in what feels like a year.
All of a sudden, any notion of embarrassment subsides. I start to relax. No one bats an eyelid once I’m in.
Awkwardness Over
A local guy sitting no more than 3 feet from me, immediately starts up a hushed conversation. I remember this is another rule. Quiet is key.
The onsen has 2 heated pools indoors. I decide to try both of them out for size. In this next pool, the water is so shallow so there’s absolutely no hiding.
After 10 minutes of soaking and another guy coming in to take part in the head to the ceiling routine, I’m ready to head outside for the outdoor pools.
No one is out here. I can see the hot pool steaming as it battles with the cooler air outside. After a few minutes in the outdoor pool, I spot it behind me. The piece de resistance!
A deep and rounded wooden tub big enough for just one. And this tub has my name right on it. This is where I finally close my eyes and drift off into the clouds.
Unfortunately, too soon I realize that by being more comfortable here, I was kind of neglecting the whole point of the onsen. To that end, I return to the main pool. It’s much busier now.
I man up and sit in the pool for about 5 more minutes, before finally saying enough is enough. I’ve seen quite enough totem poles for one day.
The Take Home
My conclusion is that if you’re considering trying an onsen, you should go for it! Onyado Nono Nara is the perfect place to give it a try.
Sure, it’s definitely a touch on the strange side, especially if you’re not used to it. But this is an experience you will always remember, and you’ll never see any of the people again anyway.
All joking aside, this is a really relaxing undertaking and I’m glad I did it. (As an update, we’ve done a few more onsens since and it really does get easier each time!).
I think a private onsen would be the ultimate win. Being outdoors in winter with snow all around you with nothing but mountains or lakes for a view. The only set back is the hit your wallet would take.
Kristen’s Onsen Experience
I have to admit I’m a bit nervous. I’m not sure what to expect for my first onsen experience.
Mark just went into the all-male changing room and I now go into the all-female changing room. No one else is in here except me. I didn’t know whether to be more relieved or more nervous about that.
I begin to look for a cubby where I could put all my clothes and this was when a group of other women came in from the onsen. They were all naked and weren’t talking with one another. They just smile and continue on their way.
It was at this point where I convinced myself to embrace the experience and I start to undress. I place all my clothes in the little cubby and leave my towel on the shelf. But for the first time, I wished the towel was allowed here.
There was a door separating the onsen from the changing room. Now, I am standing right in front of the door and take a deep breath. Here we go. The door swings open.
Nothing To It
I had made it so much worse in my head. There are only a few women in here. Everyone was just chilling. No one even looks up at me when I open the door. Just a place with absolute tranquility.
I first stop at the showers which were immediately to my right. I remind myself that this was one of the rules. Always shower before and after.
There are stools which you can use to sit and shower yourself or you can also stand up. I choose the latter. Now washed, I set my eyes on the big pool.
There were two other ladies in the pool who just smile as I wade in. The pool isn’t deep, just enough to sit and relax while the water only just covers you. I immediately start to feel relaxed and close my eyes.
When I open my eyes about 10 minutes later, I see it. How could I miss it?! A sauna. Oh, I absolutely love a sauna. Struggling to contain my excitement, I make my way over.
Then I open the door to the sauna, I notice this is not an ordinary sauna. Why? It has a tv. Yes, a tv! I was so distracted from the tv, I did not see the other woman sitting on the top level.
We just exchange quick smiles and I find a spot on the lower level. I am in heaven, feeling free and liberated. Easy to forget I’m sitting here stark naked with a stranger.
I enjoy the sauna for a bit, but once I start to get too warm, I decide to explore more of the onsen. I shower once again just to make sure I was obeying the proper rules. It’s now time to head outdoors.
Ultimate Relaxation
The stars are out and it’s a beautiful night. Everything is completely quiet, and I see it in the corner. A tub big enough for just one. Can this place get any better?!
I make my way over to the small round pool. As I sit, the water level rises just to the very edges of the top. A look up to the sky shows the stars clear and omnipresent. I was gone.
Ultimate relaxation. So much so I never even notice the few women come into the pool next to me until it was time to leave.
I have no idea how much time has gone by at this point. Mark is going to think I abandoned him! So I shower once again getting ready to leave.
I open the door to the immaculate changing room and smile politely to the woman getting ready to go into the onsen. It’s not as bad as I thought. Just smile and relax. The Japanese onsen; it’s easy. Actually, I would do it again. (And we did!).
Book Your Stay At Onyado Nono Nara Onsen
In all honesty, this was one of our best nights in Japan. We slept like babies! So much so we didn’t hear the alarm the next morning and almost missed check out. Consider yourself warned about serious relaxation.
The onsen ryokan hotel in Nara is located right next to the JR Nara station. We also loved that the ryokan is incredibly clean and the staff were fantastic.
The overnight stay includes a delicious complementary ramen supper, use of the beautiful hot spring facilities and free washing (drying has a small fee of 100JPY for 20 mins).
Travel Tip: Don’t miss the 2 large massage chairs opposite the entrance to the onsen.
It’s perfect for your first public nude bathing experience because it’s gender separated. This helped us to feel a bit more relaxed at least with the same sex.
There’s an indoor and outdoor section with several different pools, along with a sauna. Women receive a pin code upon check-in which allow entry to the female side of the onsen, and the pin is changed daily.
>> BOOK: Onyado Nono Nara Onsen Ryokan
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We hope our guide to experiencing the onsen in Nara helps with planning your visit!
Please let us know if you have any questions in the comments below.
Happy Soaking,
Mark and Kristen
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Mark and Kristen spent 6 years traveling the world, visiting over 40 countries across 4 continents and more than 30 US states. They created Where Are Those Morgans in 2018 to help others plan the best possible vacations by writing authentic travel and hiking guides based on their real experiences.
Since the arrival of baby Maya in late 2024, Mark and Kristen’s extensive travels have slowed down but they still take plenty of trips. Where Are Those Morgans now helps millions of travelers each year to visit new places and hike new trails through information-packed blog posts and expert travel guidebooks. Read more about Mark and Kristen.